I'm disappointed to learn of Pandora's decision to move to lab diamonds & 'recycled' gold. While meant to further 'circular economy' goals, these decisions mean replacing jobs in the 'Global South' with jobs in the 'Global North'. #thread 1/ @CHRWIENBERG https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2021-05-04/world-s-biggest-jewelry-maker-will-no-longer-use-mined-diamonds
World’s Biggest Jewelry Maker Will No Longer Use Mined Diamonds
Pandora A/S, which makes more pieces of jewelry than any other company in the world, will stop using mined diamonds as part of a broader strategy to drop raw materials associated with unethical...https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2021-05-04/world-s-biggest-jewelry-maker-will-no-longer-use-mined-diamonds
2/ It's a bit shocking that this decision is being made at a time when #diamonds are more traceable than ever. And when #gold has had beautiful sourcing options for many years. (See @Fairmined, @Fairtrade_Gold, and Swiss Better Gold). @zoewoodguardian https://www.theguardian.com/business/2021/may/04/pandora-jewellery-brand-says-it-will-stop-selling-mined-diamonds
3/ There are two parts to sustainability in sourcing: environmental and social. Preferencing lab grown essentially walks away from the social sustainability movement at a time of remarkable innovation and radical transparency options....
4/ So I'm a bit shocked when this decision was made out of a 'broader sustainability drive'...and because "it's the right thing to do". Eighty percent of diamonds are from large-scale operations (e.g. DeBeers, Alrosa, etc.). Just 20% are from ASM sources. https://www.bbc.com/news/business-56972562
5/ If they want a clear clean trackable source for their diamonds... That's been available for years. Same with gold. In gold, about 85% is mined by larger-scale mines, 15% by ASM. Lots of sources for traceable ASM gold (see my earlier list of worthy programs).
6/ Don't even get me started on proliferating 'recycled gold' claims. That's a different tweet storm!
7/ I'm so passionate because I work with artisanal and small scale miners. Think 'gold panner' populations in gold, gemstones, and diamonds. In West Africa, each one of these rural jobs creates 6-7 jobs 'downstream' in processing, economic impact, etc.
8/ Women are 30% of this 'hidden' workforce that produces 15% of all gold, 20% of all diamonds, and 80% of all colored gemstones. This type of small mining is the biggest non-farm employment in Africa. Check out this report on the SDG potential: https://www.pactworld.org/library/mapping-artisanal-and-small-scale-mining-sustainable-development-goals
9/ I urge the company, and others considering this type of move, to stop saying it's about 'ethics'. Please consider keeping the door open to worthy programs where you can continue to be a part of this important conversation and promote a better world for all <3