Somewhere in the grey space of psychological horror lies a question: what makes up our identity? Like all genres of art, fashion has experimented with this question. In this thread, we’ll take a look at a few shows that examine the horror of our self-identities.
#HFMetGala2021
In Lee McQueen’s SS 2001 collection “VOSS,” themes of madness, incarceration and beauty are explored. The line between reality and fiction is blurred, if not erased:

“Beauty was in fiction but also in reality, and the space where they meet; in the sane but also the insane.”
McQueen intended for his audience to examine beauty’s role in our identity, and the very notion of beauty itself. What is true beauty? What does society consider beautiful? How far would one go in order to achieve such standards?
Designer Jun Takahashi touched on the theme of anonymity for Undercover FW 2006, wondering what life would be like as someone who wants to live without being seen.
The collection makes a strong use of masks and accessories that strip away the model's faces and fingerprints, elements associated with identity and humanity.
Vetements FW 2017 is a visual journey through recognizable social types, looking at how society fits us in boxes through dress codes. Ironic and satirical, designer Demna Gvasalia reveals how restrictive these social roles are despite being an element of our personal identities.
Questions of self-identity are also a staple in the genre of science fiction, notably in the cult film “Blade Runner.” Scott Ridley’s 1982 film grapples with themes of cloning and memories, forcing us to ask where we draw the line between human and machine.
For his SS 2018 menswear collection, Raf Simons was inspired by the cyberpunk world of the 1982 film. Draped in oversized silhouettes, both male & female models strode through a futuristic Chinatown setting, hats and umbrellas obscuring their faces and identities from the camera.
For Givenchy’s FW 1998 Couture collection, Lee McQueen drew from the late 30s inspired silhouettes of the heroine Rachael. The angular shapes and perfectly constructed leather garments appear suffocating, representing how Rachael fits into lines shaped for her rather than by her.
Fashion is a mirror to ourselves and our worlds, prompting us to ask the questions we would rather not face. Where does the self reside? Where is the line between self and other? Through fashion's reflective lens we can see the hidden layers within - even those that scare us.
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