Last weekend, I set off the find the source of the River Fleet - London’s most famous subterranean waterway

It rises in separate springs on Hampstead Heath & flows underground along two brooks which meet in Kentish Town & eventually join the River Thames.
The sources of the Fleet are springs in the Vale of Health (see other THREAD) & this one in Kenwood, (‘Caen’ meaning green).

Of all London’s lost rivers, the Fleet was the largest & most important providing water for drinking, washing, powering mills & transportation & sewerage.
In Roman, Anglo Saxon & Medieval times the Fleet was a major river

As London’s population grew, its flow was reduced &, over the centuries, it became clogged with waste & sewerage

In 1870, the last stretch of the Fleet was covered up but on the Heath it still runs above ground
In 1290, some monks in Blackfriars filed a complaint about the appalling stench of the Fleet saying even their most pungent incense failed to mask it

The river was cleaned out in 1502 & in 1606 but rubbish & sewerage meant it was blocked up again by 1652

Disease was inevitable.
The waters of the spring are high in iron & minerals & drinking or bathing them were thought to to having health-giving properties

In Kenwood House, there is a marble plunge pool where built by Lord Mansfield, the Lord Chief Justice
& whose nephew impregnated a slave, born Dido.
In the 13th century the Fleet was called River of Wells.

But in 1728 Alexander Pope wrote:

“To where Fleet-ditch with disemboguing streams,
Rolls the large tribute of dead dogs to Thames.
The king of dykes! Than whom no sluice of mud,
With deeper sable blots the silver flood."
Hampstead was popular with highwaymen who preyed on wealthy travellers

Dick Turpin was born in the nearby Spaniard’s Inn in 1705 where his father was landlord

If caught, highway were often hung on trees in the Heath & left dangling until their skins were “cracking in the sun”.
Our journey to uncover this hidden river also uncovers a hidden ‘radical history’

From Boudicea in AD60 to the 1381 Peasants’ Revolt

From the Chartists to the Fleet Street radicals & the Spafield Riots

From Orwell to the anti-fascist 43 Group, it all happened beside the Fleet.
The Sham Bridge is a ‘trompe l’oeil’ & a reminder that we shouldn’t take everything at face value

It’s easy to be seduced by the Downton-like beauty & stories of Lord Mansfield’s role in the abolition of the slave trade

But Kenwood House is still built on the profits of slavery
One out of two children born in early 18th century London died before they were 2, usually due to malnutrition, bad water & poor hygiene

The average life expectancy in 18th century Britain was about 40

The rich lived much longer

Lord Mansfield, for example, was 88 when he died
The Heath has 32 bodies of water including two chains of ponds - the Hampstead Chain & the Highgate Chain - fed by the River Fleet

Swimming in the ponds is a long tradition, but only became formally permitted at the Men’s Pond in the 1890 s & at the Ladies’ Bathing Pond in 1926.
The lower part of the Fleet was navigable for large ships

There are records of stone being shipped for the construction of old St Paul's Cathedral in 1110-1133

But the discovery of an anchor as far north as Kentish Town shows the Fleet’s importance for transport in north London
About 25 years ago, someone released some Red Swamp Crayfish - also known as Louisiana crawfish or mudbugs - into the ponds

With few natural predators they have become ubiquitous, damaging the ecosystem & occasionally give nude swimmers a unexpected nip.
At the summit of Hampstead Heath, the highest point in London (135m) lies Whitestone Pond, the source of another of London’s ‘lost rivers’, the River Westbourne

It is also the site of Jack Straw’s Castle where the leaders of the Peasants’ Revolt addressed an angry crowd in 1381.
Passing Whitestone Pond in 1946, four Jewish ex-servicemen saw Oswald Mosley’s right-hand man, Jeffrey Hamm, addressing a small crowd

They rushed his soapbox & beat up Hamm & his henchmen

Soon after the 43 Group was formed to infiltrate fascist groups & break-up their meetings.
Beside the men’s bathing pond is the boating pond

Because the River Fleet has two sources & two brooks, this thread also divides

The thread below👇follows the Highgate Brook towards Tufnell Park

This thread follows the Hampstead Brook twds Belsize Park
https://twitter.com/stefsimanowitz/status/1317505745131372545?s=21b https://twitter.com/stefsimanowitz/status/1317505745131372545
The Hampstead Brook - the other arm of the River Fleet - has its source in the Vale of Health.

Before it was drained in the 1700’s, this was a malarial bog called Hatchett’s Bottom.

From this pond the river sets off across the Heath to the Viaduct Pond.
In Roman times, the Fleet was a major river with its estuary possibly containing the world’s oldest tidal mill

Many wells were built along its banks, (Bagnigge Well, Clerkenwell, St Bride's Well etc.) & in the C13th the river was called the River of Wells
We came across this old lead sewerage/drainage pipe on the way to the mixed bathing

It was called a “bathing pond” because few people could swim

Swimming became more popular in the mid-1800s, but there were a lot of deaths, up to one a week in the summer
On a hot August day in 1975, a torrential downpour known as The Hampstead Storm, dumped almost 7 inches of rain on the Heath in two hours

The Viaduct Pond overtopped causing serious flooding downstream

One person drowned & 20 families lost their homes.
From the Viaduct Pond the Fleet flows to the Mixed Bathing Pond.

The abundance of clean water in Hampstead led to it being the centre for laundresses for several centuries. Even up until the 1860s the Heath would be white with linen spread out to dry on the gorse. #FreeTheFleet
The Mixed Pond runs into Pond No.1 & then Pond No.2 - originally reservoirs which supplied north London with drinking water through pipes made of bored elm trunks

It once fed a 4th reservoir, the lost South End Pond, which was drained in 1858 to build the Hampstead Heath station
Before we leave the Heath, the more observant among you might have noticed what looked like a duckling trapped behind the metal grate in the Vale of Health

Someone alerted me on Twitter, so me & Mango set off to rescue the duck. #FreeTheDuck #FreeTheFleet https://twitter.com/StefSimanowitz/status/1318552603039617025
For many centuries, the river Fleet which rises as fresh spring water here, was famed for its stench

An 18th century play has the line: "I was just dead of a consumption, till the sweet smoke of Cheapside & the dear perfume of Fleet Ditch made me a man again." #FreeTheFleet
As well as the Fleet, the Heath provides the source of two other ‘lost rivers’ – the Westbourne/Kilburn & the Tyburn

The Westbourne flows south feeding the Serpentine & joining the River Thames at Chelsea.

The Tyburn flows through Mayfair meeting the Thames near
Lambeth Bridge.
The Fleet has a long history of flooding

After heavy rains, the river would became a torrent, flooding buildings & sweeping away livestock

A sudden thaw in 1809 meant people as far as Clerkenwell had to receive provisions from carts through their windows
ALONG THE ROUTE OF THE RIVER FLEET:

Boudica, AD60

Jack Straw & the Peasants' Revolt 1381

Dick Turpin, 1739

Henry Hunt, Spafields Riots, 1816

William Cobbett, 1825

The Chartists, 1836

Orwell, 1937

John Hartsfield, 1938

Emerson Warner, 1939

The anti-fascist 43 Group, 1946
"Today, I walked the path of Fleet. Like life, a river starts at the source & ends at the source. It reminds us where we have come from & where we will go. It reminds that tomorrow isn't separate from yesterday. That yesterday isn't separate from today."
(Emerson Warner, 1941)
Sadly, this is the last time we see the fresh waters of the Fleet running above ground.

The river won’t see daylight again until Blackfriars Bridge after a 4 mile trip down a sewer, filled with the effluent of north London.

Let’s bring the Fleet back above ground! #FreeTheFleet
As well as the rivers Fleet, Westbourne & Tyburn that all rise on Hampstead Heath, there are many other lost rivers in London. They include:
The Walbrook
The River Moselle
The River Peck
The River Neckinger
The River Effra
The Falconbrook
The Graveney River
The River Heathwall
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