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I sat on the edge of the Malwiya minaret overlooking the beautiful city of #Samarra and Al-Askari shrine and my friend went berserk: you really think if anything happens to you here, God forbid, your family will believe me when I tell them it was an accident? #Iraq
When terrorists destroyed the Al-Askari shrine in 2006, Shia tribes begged Sistani to allow them to march north to take revenge. He forbid them outright: “the shrine will be rebuilt and it will be even more beautiful than before, but who will answer for the bloodshed?” #Samarra
Day 1 in Iraq.
“can I have a cigarette?”
The driver gives me the entire pack.
Even when it comes to poison, Iraqis give with unmatched generosity.
“can I have a cigarette?”
The driver gives me the entire pack.
Even when it comes to poison, Iraqis give with unmatched generosity.
Al-Awja, the tyrant’s hometown, south of Tikrit. Today it’s a ghost town.
Me: I’m on a diet, please something light today
Tribal Sheikh in Tikrit: say no more
Tribal Sheikh in Tikrit: say no more
Morbid Iraqi humour:
Two friends discuss, in front of me, what it would take for them to betray me.
I’m glad that neither is willing to sell me out for anything less than $5,000,000
Two friends discuss, in front of me, what it would take for them to betray me.
I’m glad that neither is willing to sell me out for anything less than $5,000,000
Iraqi judge: When cases reach our desks relating to terrorism offences, powerful armed groups send us pictures of our parent’s or sister’s homes to our personal phones.
Yes, our job is to ensure justice is served. But we are also human.
Yes, our job is to ensure justice is served. But we are also human.
Asking every civilian I meet in Iraq how many guns they own.
The most common answer:
“a pistol and a Kalashnikov”
The most disturbing answer:
“light or heavy?”
The most common answer:
“a pistol and a Kalashnikov”
The most disturbing answer:
“light or heavy?”
Appointment in Samarra, an ancient Mesopotamian tale #Iraq
Site of the Camp Speicher massacre at the Presidential Palace complex in Tikrit, Iraq.
1,700 Iraqi Shia cadets were executed here by ISIS on 12 June 2014
1,700 Iraqi Shia cadets were executed here by ISIS on 12 June 2014
Lover’s Palace built by Abbasid caliph Al-Mu’tamid in the 9th century for a woman he fell in love with
Getting a haircut in Kadhimiya, Baghdad.
Barber: where are you from?
Me: Najaf.
Barber: Najafis have beautiful voices!
*wow, a Kadhmawi praising Najafis, is this a dream?*
Barber: but we have old scores to settle with you...
Barber: where are you from?
Me: Najaf.
Barber: Najafis have beautiful voices!
*wow, a Kadhmawi praising Najafis, is this a dream?*
Barber: but we have old scores to settle with you...
I hate it when Iraqi officials say something profound or stupid but then add, “don’t tweet this!”
Baghdad checkpoint.
Officer: are you carrying any weapons?
Driver: no
Me: you what, mate?
Driver: I’m not carrying it
Officer: are you carrying any weapons?
Driver: no
Me: you what, mate?
Driver: I’m not carrying it
Just met a junior gov’t official wearing a $60,000 watch. The meeting ended with him showing me his collection of watches.
A friend casually drove on the WRONG SIDE of the road towards incoming traffic in Baghdad.
Instinctively, I took out my phone to record our possible, imminent deaths.
“ha, you’re filming this to show the world that Iraqis don’t obey traffic rules?”
He then drove correctly.
Instinctively, I took out my phone to record our possible, imminent deaths.
“ha, you’re filming this to show the world that Iraqis don’t obey traffic rules?”
He then drove correctly.
Further signs of Iranian influence in Iraq.
They are going to kill us with their sweetness.
They are going to kill us with their sweetness.
Patiently listening to another “we Iraqis invented writing” monologue
Posing for photos with Iraqis.
Iraqis: Take off your mask!
Iraqis: Take off your mask!
Thought-provoking discussion on stability and sovereignty with Hadi al-Amiri, head of the Fatah Alliance.
The one-hour meeting went quite well. The ‘goodbye’ at the door took another 45 minutes.
The one-hour meeting went quite well. The ‘goodbye’ at the door took another 45 minutes.
Ayatollah Khoei looks stressed out as I go through his papers
Me: I’ll get you a PS5 from London
Unimpressed Baghdadi kid: what’s the point? I have a PS4
Unimpressed Baghdadi kid: what’s the point? I have a PS4
Ezidi man from Sinjar smoking tobacco in Duhok after ISIS ethnically cleansed his town, slaughtered the remaining men and enslaved the women and girls whilst the world watched and did nothing #Iraq
Dinner in #Erbil
A Kurdish man heard us speaking Arabic and asked where we come from.
“Baghdad, Najaf & Nasiriya”
“Welcome to Erbil kaka”
He then paid for our dinner.
Our corrupt politicians fight over oil and territory but our people will never be enemies.
#Kurdistan #Iraq
A Kurdish man heard us speaking Arabic and asked where we come from.
“Baghdad, Najaf & Nasiriya”
“Welcome to Erbil kaka”
He then paid for our dinner.
Our corrupt politicians fight over oil and territory but our people will never be enemies.
#Kurdistan #Iraq
It didn’t end there. He called the manager and pointed at us: every time they come here, it’s on me.
He doesn’t even know our names.
Why?
He was deported by Baathists to Iran in 1988. On his return to Iraq, he spent 5 years in the south: “I will never forget their hospitality”
He doesn’t even know our names.
Why?
He was deported by Baathists to Iran in 1988. On his return to Iraq, he spent 5 years in the south: “I will never forget their hospitality”
#Erbil Citadel, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The formerly fortified settlement sits on an artificial hill, created by hundreds of years of building and rebuilding on the same spot #Kurdistan
At a Zoroastrian fire temple in #Erbil
In 2015, Zoroastrianism was officially recognised as a protected faith in the #Kurdistan Region.
Zoroastrians have since had a representative in the Kurdistan Regional Government's Ministry of Endowment and Religious Affairs.
In 2015, Zoroastrianism was officially recognised as a protected faith in the #Kurdistan Region.
Zoroastrians have since had a representative in the Kurdistan Regional Government's Ministry of Endowment and Religious Affairs.
I am in love with every Church
And Mosque
And Temple
And any kind of shrine
Because I know it is there
That people say the different names
Of the One God.
— Hafez
And Mosque
And Temple
And any kind of shrine
Because I know it is there
That people say the different names
Of the One God.
— Hafez
#Erbil Bazaar, Grand Mosque and Citadel #Kurdistan
Kebab Yasin, #Erbil
One of the best kebab joints in the region. And by region I mean Middle East. #Kurdistan
One of the best kebab joints in the region. And by region I mean Middle East. #Kurdistan
An Ezidi Hashd al-Shabi fighter stands guard outside #Kojo village, which was ethnically cleansed by ISIS in August 2014
Six years after that horrific genocide, only the guards have returned. #Iraq
Six years after that horrific genocide, only the guards have returned. #Iraq
It’s difficult to comprehend the depravity of ISIS. Not even babies were spared in #Sinjar
One of 82 Ezidi mass graves in Sinjar
400+ Ezidis were killed in cold blood here
400+ Ezidis were killed in cold blood here
الظلم في العراق قصة لن تنتهي
مأساة إخواننا الإيزيدية جرح لم يندمل
لم ولن ينسى ابناء الرافدين ما حصل لأهلهم من الإيزيدية من سبي وقتل وتنكيل وتهجير
مصيبتهم ذكرتنا بالمقابر الجماعية للشيعة في جنوب العراق والأنفال للكرد في الشمال
الظلم والإرهاب لا دين ولا مذهب له
مأساة إخواننا الإيزيدية جرح لم يندمل
لم ولن ينسى ابناء الرافدين ما حصل لأهلهم من الإيزيدية من سبي وقتل وتنكيل وتهجير
مصيبتهم ذكرتنا بالمقابر الجماعية للشيعة في جنوب العراق والأنفال للكرد في الشمال
الظلم والإرهاب لا دين ولا مذهب له
“Welcome to Sinjar, in this ruin a people live who carry the memories of the elderly and dreams of the children”
“No friend but the mountains” — Kurdish proverb
Sinjar Mountains, the only refuge for Ezidis fleeing ISIS in August 2014 until a corridor was opened for them by the PKK
Many elderly and children died of thirst and exhaustion whilst climbing up the mountains
Sinjar Mountains, the only refuge for Ezidis fleeing ISIS in August 2014 until a corridor was opened for them by the PKK
Many elderly and children died of thirst and exhaustion whilst climbing up the mountains
Ezidi resistance fighters here had only one rocket-propelled grenade launcher to defend themselves against ISIS
When the Peshmerga forces fled their positions, they took their weapons with them
#Sinjar
When the Peshmerga forces fled their positions, they took their weapons with them
#Sinjar
A heartbreaking story of a mother and her baby son. An Ezidi woman carried her baby up mount Sinjar with only one bottle of water to share between them, which she tried to give him one small sip at a time to preserve it until they reached safety.
When 3/4 of the water finished her son died of exhaustion and she left him by the side of the mountain and placed rocks around him. Instead of drinking the rest of the water herself, she carried on climbing the mountain in search of another baby to quench their thirst.
Even though she lost her baby, she thought she could at least save another from the same cruel fate. She eventually found another mother with a baby and gave them the remaining water to drink.
A few hours later, a group of young men came towards her carrying a baby. It was her own son. He hadn’t died but was unconscious. Her son survived but to this day she wonders about the fate of the other baby and his mother.
Six years later, she’s still searching for them.
Six years later, she’s still searching for them.
