The intended joke not only fell flat at the dinner, but also caught him up in several controversial issues. One of these is the issue of accessibility, which has also been closely linked with castles. In Nagoya, the mayor has been pushing to demolish the concrete castle keep 2/9
and rebuild it from wood in an "authentic" manner. These plans do not retain the elevators of the existing 1950s reconstruction, and there are heated conflicts between proponents of maximum authenticity and those who want it accessible to all visitors. 3/9
Abe's comments also hit a separate nerve in Osaka. While many Japanese cities are dissatisfied with their aging concrete castle reconstructions and want to replace them with new wooden structures, residents of Osaka are generally very proud of their castle keep. 4/9
The keep of Osaka Castle was the first to be reconstructed from concrete, in 1928, and has a fascinating history of its own. Built to celebrate Osaka's heritage as well as its modernity (and Emperor Hirohito's enthronement), the keep inspired many other castle rebuilds. 5/9
The keep project was a symbol of Osaka's civil society in the 1920s, but was also at the heart of the 4th Army Division Headquarters and the largest arms factory in Asia. Like no other site, Osaka Castle reflects the turbulent modern history of the city. 6/9
It remains one of the most popular visitor attractions in Japan, and was extensively refurbished at great expense in the 1990s to ensure its survival for future generations. While not especially authentic as a reconstruction of its lost premodern predecessors, 7/9
the Osaka Castle keep is a highly authentic artefact of Showa Japan (1926-1989), and much of the site celebrates this heritage. The elevators are just as much a part of the site as is the recently refurbished 4th Division HQ building, now a leisure venue named Mirai-Za. 8/9
For more on the modern history of Osaka in the form of a virtual tour, please see my recent video in the Japan's Modern Castles series: 9/9
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