The new subwoofer is in and it is huge. Almost absurdly large. I feel like I should apologize to my neighbors preemptively for that which is going to come. I may lose my "favorite neighbor" status...

Here it is, not yet in a box, compared to the dead 12 in its box:

First step of the box build is carefully unpacking and inspecting for damage like this; this isn't from shipping; it was put in the box like this, but I should be okay:

A test fitting shows everything will go together well:

Oof; this one's on me. Bumped it off the truck bed.

I can put that on the inside however, and hide it. Nobody will ever know if you agree to help me keep the secret:

I marked the center line and found the depth gauge that matches; I will use this for placing the Brad's to hold this together while the glue sets:

Using a speed square to identify the centerline's for the internal bracing:

Mocking up the placement I can now identify exactly where I need to place the Brad's later:

Just about ready; I need to mark the outer lines as well:

Now I have a path for all the Brad's on this peice and I can prepare it for gluing up to its new neighbors:

This bradder is making this build much easier:

Learning to run a good bead of glue takes practice; this is not my best work but will do:

The outer sides are done; time for the bracing. Why so much bracing? We don't want to lose any energy to flex in the sides of the box. A stiffer box forces more energy into the desired direction (our ear holes and the vibration of the house):

All pinned into place; going to add glue to all the seams:

Here's how I spaced the Brad's; they're just going to hold it in place and "clamped" until the glue sets; that will be the primary strength of the box:

Well that's it for tonight! I'm out of light and I don't yet have my dream shop (or a real shop) so time to wash the glue off my hands and out of my beard.

I got some beefy 1/4 inch bolts and retaining nut inserts to hold this massive beast in place; now I need to accurately place the holes in the two part faceplate assembly:

These C clamps will hold their position long enough for me to drill matching holes through both faceplate pieces:

Using my new (to me) drill press I've got three points I can bolt together now, swapping these bulky C clamps for something easier to work around:

Helpful hint: registration marks like this help you put things back in the exact orientation you registered them (e.g. drilled holes in them) together so that a slight difference doesn't come back to bite you later (e.g. upside down or backwards and doesn't line up):

Test for complete; now let's drill some counter-sink holes for these threaded fittings:

Using a drill size chart we can see we need 5/16th counter-sink holes:

Fortunately this drill press has a depth gauge that we can use to make repeatable depths:

There's what it looks like; a slightly larger hole to accommodate the body of the nut:

Seating it with a beefy vice:

These are handy; stronger than wood screws and they stay in place:

If you look down the hole you can see the threads waiting for the beef bolt!

A problem has emerged; interference between my retainer and two of the braces. I shall have to create some space:

The base plate is glued into place and bradded but now I'm going to have to glue the face plate on without poking new holes with the bradder. I guess I'll need a weight on it. Maybe this 46 pound weight I have handy will work?

Bolted in place for extra clamping force; while this cures I can play the "did I loan it out or lose it?" game with my caulk gun:

Started to hand-sand the finish and decided I definitely want to go borrow an orbital sander:

Good news; a friend has a used DeWalt orbital sander I can buy cheap!

Bad news: I did not listen to my own advice about always, always using a test board to verify my router was set correctly. It was not! This I'm filling it in with glue and will sand to match later:

I chose this corner to test because it was going to be on the bottom in the back anyway so it probably won't be seen. :-)

When sanding the glue seams down you have to be thorough and get them all; this may seem fine and would likely be okay for a matte finish but a gloss will scream this mistake at your eyes:

The pencil lines under the glue make wonderful measures of whether or not you're done:

Here, however, the glue fill should be hidden under the primer:

Time to mount the plug and get ready to wire the box. I already caulked the inside; might be time for a little test soon: