It amazes me that Tesla owners have no clue how Track Mode works

2/ Begin thread. Track Mode allows modification of a limited number of vehicle parameters. Notably absent is tire sizes, but the motors may be able to sense how much grip there is without us specifying.

3/ Tesla 3 Performance has an induction motor in front with appoximately 170 HP and 150 TQ; rear has approximately 280 HP and 330 TQ. I suspect the horsepower output is slightly variable. This is important.

4/ Setting the car to 100% front "handling balance" doesn't disable the rear motor as the slider would imply. It just directs which motor will lead when the driver calls up a change in velocity with their right foot.

5/ Which leads us to the second setting, "stability". An electric car is a symphony of active handling. There is not a conventional, passive traction control system to disable as in BMW, Audi, MB sports sedans. There's two motors, and two open differentials. No connecting center.

6/ Stability programs are yaw control. The idea is to keep the vehicle at a maximum 2% off axis, so a slide doesn't spin the car (as the driver accelerates into it). Conventional ICE cars (front engine, rear wheel drive) get into runaway slides much more easily.

7/ The biggest surprise for me with Tesla is how well it manages tire wear, when properly aligned. Normal track abuse destroys tires in front engine gas cars, as the tires go into mechanical overspin and they slip into corners. Tesla doesn't slip the wheels. Not even set at -10.

8/ Maximum loose "stability" setting may seem dangerous, but it's less reckless than Autopilot. The physics of a car with a battery in the floor are very easy for the driver. The trait that makes it impossible to rollover carries to a predictable slide / change of friction circle

9/ Back to the motors. Counterintuitively, the fastest drag strip setting is high state of charge (>80%) and 100% front motor handling bias. The induction motor is quicker off the line. And Tesla may allow an overboost or this motor, since it has more in it above specification.

10/ For big track with turns and 20 minutes of drive time, set it to 80-90% rear motor handling bias. Thermal management is critical here. The front motor will get to 230F fast and shed horsepower, enough to lose 4 seconds a lap. The PMSRM rear motor inverter has a heat sink also

11/ On big track you can set a fast lap time with 15% state of charge. Peak output won't help you. Momentum will. You need very good aftermarket brakes to brake late, and a very high spring rate aftermarket suspension to carry speed.

12/ The "compressor overclock" setting redirects the air conditioning to the cooling system, and lets the compressor go from about 6500 RPM to 9500 RPM. I did this and it fried the compressor clutch. Now the car makes a old-car squeaky noise when it turns off, as it disengages.