Cook’s journal entry of 22 April 1770 is the moment he knows the ‘Great South Land’ is inhabited. It’s the first time the Endeavour sights Aboriginal people – Cook writes “saw the smook of fire in several places near the Sea beach. (now called Racecourse Beach).
Joseph Banks writes: "In the morn we stood in with the land near enough to discern 5 people who appeard through our glasses to be enormously black." They are members of the Yuin Nation (Murramarang/Budawang).
The Murramarang/Budawang are of the Dhurga language and have been there for over a thousand generations. Shell middens and occupation sites date back some 12000 years. They have been there longer than the most recent ice age, when sea levels were lower by up to 100 metres.
Cook wrote: “were so near the Shore as to distinguish several people upon the Sea beach, they appear'd to be of a very dark or black Colour but whether this was the real colour of their skins or the C[l]othes they might have on I know not.
He also saw people and canoes at Murramarang. Cook spotted “a remarkable peaked hill laying inland the top of which look'd like a Pigeon house and occasioned my giving it that name.” It already had a name: 'Didthul' and is a connected to the ocean through Dreaming stories.
A Murramarang woman, Coomee-Nulunga, (1825 -1915) recalled that her grandmother told stories of "the first time the white birds came by’ in reference to Captain Cook sailing past Murramarang Point. Today you can walk The Coomie Nulunga Cultural Trail.
Cook was sailing towards the coast to see if he could find a safe place to anchor. If only’d he’d asked: The town Ulladulla' is derived from a local Yuin Aboriginal word - either 'ullada ullada' and 'Woollahderra' which meant 'safe harbour'.
Cook wrote: “When we first discover'd this Island in the morning I was in hopes from its appearence that we should have found shelter for the Ship behind it but when we came to approach it near I did not think that there was even security for a boat to land.”
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