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Sew, I may not have enough lether to do a coat, but I think I can do a vest. How about a Steampunk themed Combat Tailor's Vest?
I've got a book of patterns for theatrical costumes with a pattern for a cutaway coat that I think would work as a base to draft the pattern from.
I've got a book of patterns for theatrical costumes with a pattern for a cutaway coat that I think would work as a base to draft the pattern from.
And then do I use the mustard yellow leather, the 'tobacco' color, or distress the 'tobacco' with the limited black dye I've got?
3) So I scanned in the reference drawing of the cutaway coat, and I think I've got the length correct for the look I want.
4) From the book I'm using "Patterns for Theatrical Costumes" by Katherine Strand Holkeboer, the patterns are laid out for Small, Medium and Large sizes (34-36", 38-40" and 42-44" chests respectively) the patterns are set to 1/8"=1".
5) I modified the coat by removing the lines for the "small" and "large" sizes,and then adjusted the front to match the length and bottom edge profile.
I then made a version with a grid of 1/8" squares and scanned that in.
I then made a version with a grid of 1/8" squares and scanned that in.
6) I then blew up that scan by a factor of 8, broke it into 8.5 x 11 inch pages and printed the sections out to be taped together and the pattern cut out. By the books instructions, there is no seam allowance, so I am going to give myself a 3/8" seam allowance.
7) Transferring the patterns to my drafting paper. Using one of my other tools, a 'measuring gauge' to add my 3/8" (~9.5 mm) seam allowance
8) using the guide I can set my pencil at one point and follow the stitching line to draw the cutting line
9) I now need to draft a collar. I want it to be a standing collar, but due to the neckline curve of the vest it can't just be a rectangular band, it needs to have a slight curve to it. I use a tailor's French curve ruler to get the measurements from the front and back pieces.
10) I've got all the major pieces drafted out.
Front
Back
Collar
Shoulder padding
Shoulder caps
Front lining/facings (allowing for contrasting facing)
(Back lining is the same as the back)
Optional epaulets and back ties
Front
Back
Collar
Shoulder padding
Shoulder caps
Front lining/facings (allowing for contrasting facing)
(Back lining is the same as the back)
Optional epaulets and back ties
11) the first thing I want to do is check out how much the quilting of the shoulder padding will reduce the size. I'm going to use 4 layers of coating wool as the padding.
12) I'm starting wit a piece of fabric 21" square. My machine has a nifty "arm" you can set a width on for quilting purposes. I'm going with 1" squares
13. Now here's a nice surprise. Due to the stretchiness of the wool I was using, i actually was able to stay at 21" square.
You can even see the nice "puffed" quilted square look.
You can even see the nice "puffed" quilted square look.
14) for my fitting garment I'm going for the basics. Frobts, backs, collar and the sleeve caps. I'll then be marking this up with the location of the pockets and the 'tool' holders.
15) I've sewn the back along the center back seam and the front and back together along the sides and shoulders. I now test fit to center the shoulder caps, as the shoulder seams are set back slightly. I'll now add the shoulder caps and collar.
16) Collar and shoulder caps added. Collar shape will work nicely, and you can see how by marking the top of the shoulder I got the shoulder caps to sit level, rather than tilted back if I had centered them on the shoulder seam.
17) Shoulder 'yoke' mockup pinned in place. The back looks good, but the front looks like it can be extended about 2-1/2 inches. I'm making this part similar to the padding on a shooting vest, and it needs to come lower into the shoulder 'pocket'.
18) Here's another of my tips. When I'm folding over a seam allowance that doesn't have a stitched reference I'll double the seam allowance and make marks to fold 'to' rather than a line to fold 'on' .
In this case, since my seam allowance is 3/8" i make my marks at 3/4"
In this case, since my seam allowance is 3/8" i make my marks at 3/4"
Adjusted yoke looks good with the collar and shoulder caps. Time for a break for supper, then I'll add the lining, some buttons and buttonholes and mark up pockets.
20) no button holes, so pinned in place. Looking good, but I think I'm going to lengthen it by 2 or 3 inches. Also figured out pockets. The various implement straps will be figured out as I go with the leather version.
21) Time to break out the paper and pencils again.
And oh yeah, sewing machine will go through 4 layers of 4 oz leather. That's about 3/8 of an inch (9.5 mm)
And oh yeah, sewing machine will go through 4 layers of 4 oz leather. That's about 3/8 of an inch (9.5 mm)
21) And now we get to one of the fun things with leather. The pieces are oddly shaped.
I look at the topside and see if there are interesting textures I want to make prominent, otherwise I do try to layout pieces parallel to each other so they will stretch identically.
I look at the topside and see if there are interesting textures I want to make prominent, otherwise I do try to layout pieces parallel to each other so they will stretch identically.
22) this means on large projects you'll need to have complete left and right side pattern pieces cut out.
23) looks like all the major parts will fit, and with sufficient left over for the smaller straps and welts I'll need.
24) Distressed the leather with some thinned out black dye and lots of elbow grease. The small piece in the mid is the original color
25) under some better light
