Thread by @theAaronCameron, So far in lockdown I've finally gotten around to fixing up my [...]

So far in lockdown I've finally gotten around to fixing up my old bass (on the docket since 2001/02).

Made a new bone nut, put in new pickguard screws (old ones were stripped), and adjusted the truss rod.

Then I completed a guitar pedal. BYOC kit, but with a custom housing.

Theeeeeeen I upgraded the bridge pins on my @guildguitars OM-140 to ox bone. Crosby Audio, 20 bucks on Amazon. Full recommend.

Oh right, I also had to change my board around to fit in the new pedal. For the first time ever I have a Fuzz Face AND a Big Muff on the same board. The neighbours are very impressed.

Theeeeeen (after the pins) I finally got around to making a pedal board for acoustic open mics.

... but it needs velcro.

Anyway, so now I'm making a guitar.(Artist rendering)

The first thing to do when making a guitar is get or make a good template.

I know this because this is actually the second attempt at making this particular guitar.

The paint never cured, but that turned out to the least of its issues. I came to accept it would easier to just make a fresh body than try to recover this one.

Anyhoo, the next step is to get yourself some nice wood. Pine can be fun, spruce might be cool, but generally you want to use a hardwood. If you use ash, like I am, you get to say things like "sweet piece of ash", which is very fun.

You'll need to plane it or sand it to smooth out the glue joint, that's if you're working with two pieces as I am. If you're working with one piece... tell me your source?
This was around 7/4, but it's closer to 1 5/8 (40mm now).

You may have noticed my join is off centre. I don't mind really, it's going to be painted anyway, and if the join isn't as good as I think it is I'd rather not have the neck bolted to it. Anyway, it matched up well.

Another good thing about using templates is in case you absent mindedly bore a hole the wrong size.

From here, a router with a flush trim bit will be your best friend.
Carpet tape will be a pal, but not enough of a pal that I'm willing to trust it solo today. So, if you want, use screws somewhere that will eventually be a hole or removed in the end anyway.

But, you want to help out your best friend. For me, that meant taking my biggest forstner bit, scribing along the outline of the template, and using the next one down to bore holes along the edge.

It helps to have a centre line on everything. Especially if it's in the centre.
After you're done boring your sweet piece of ash (see?) cut the excess off with a jigsaw.

Now you're ready to fire up the router. You'll probably need to do multiple passes as well. Remember that your router is a kindly, hard working fellow, but can easily be over taxed.

Sometime later, and after removing your template, you should have something like this. You may have to sand your edges, and accept that you are not a CNC machine and things may not be perfect.

Templates are your friend. Well, they're friends of the router, really, but that makes them friends of yours. Anyway, I decided I couldn't go any further without making a tidier, cleaner template for my pickups. Scary times are coming.

This template became a template for a thinner template. It's better this way, because it will give the router more range.
It may seem wasteful, but it's better this way. And besides, MDF is hateful stuff.

I'm not sure if I'm being precautionary or if I'm procrastinating, but we now have holes for the bridge studs, and the controls.
There is a lot of routing ahead.
Also, tape is two fold. It can prevent tear outs when you're drilling, and it gives you something to write on.

I've now made the first major, no backing out now commitment, which was to route out a pocket for the controls. This guitar is back routed, so the controls pop out through the top, and will have a cover on the back. I need to decide soon if said cover will be counter sunk or not.

I first bored a lot of the pocket with a forstner bit, and then took multiple passes with the router. This is a case of patience paying off. If I took large cuts I may have not noticed my drill holes were too small for the shafts of my control pots. It also let me re-centre them.

Cutting out the pickup pockets can be stressful, but it's the same as the control pocket: forstner bits for the bulk, multiple passes with a router. Extra care to make sure your template is well mounted. Carpet tape is great for this job.

Moving on from the pickups, I've gone around the edge with a half inch round over bit. It starts to really look like a finished piece after you round the edges, but also it's easier to do this before you cut the neck pocket out. At least I think so.

This is the only corner I plan to cut. I *could* make a neck pocket template, but since the neck I'm going to be using is based on Telecaster dimensions I'm going to use this laser cut Tele template.

I'll have to avoid that gap though. On a Tele that gap lets you get easy access to the truss rod (at least the vintage versions) and would be covered by the pick guard. On this guitar neither would be true.

Again, forstner bits to start and make it lighter work for the router.

Well, I didn't butcher it, which is good.

...And my neck template fits, which is also good.

I've hit a snag. I was due.
Test fitting and noticed the strings were traveling crooked. The high E was off the board. Very troublesome, and confusing as everything seemed centered. Heartbreaking really.
Turns out it was the neck (which I didn't make) was mounted on an angle...

Anyhoo, it was caught. And thankfully, an easier fix than if the neck pocket or hardware was cut wrong or off centre. Refilling the holes with dowels and glue. I'll pack them with as much wood and glue as possible and then remount the neck. Should be aces then. ... "should be"...

Earlier in this thread I said "heartbreaking". Let's knock that down to disappointing.
Anyway, the dowels have been cut down, the holes pack with crazy glue, and they're sanded down. It's like it never happened.

Latest Threads Unrolled: