Here’s another little piece I wrote for @BroadviewMag’s Easter issue on the humble hot cross bun. I used to find them very boring as an Easter treat (who wants fruity bread when there’s chocolate to be had?) so I was very fascinated to learn that they nearly caused a riot in 1792

Nobody is really sure where hot cross buns originate from! Spiced bread made with dried fruit has a long history, and buns/loaves with similar score marks on the crust have been around for ages (the one below is from Modestus’ bakery in Pompeii)

Some people theorize that a version of the hot cross bun was used in pagan spring equinox festivals in north-western Europe, with the dried fruit from the last year’s harvest symbolizing a sweet hope for this year’s growing season.

Another part of this theory maintains that the buns were Christianized by medieval monks, who added the cross to make them seem less pagan. Again, this is all speculation based on anecdotes written much later. But still kinda neat!

What we DO know is that these buns became very popular, and that in 16th century England their sale was restricted to Good Friday, Christmas and burials. Anyone caught breaking that law had to give their whole stash of buns away to the poor.

London’s famous Chelsea Bun House did such brisk hot cross bun business that people would often start lining up at 3 or 4 am on Good Friday to purchase buns. They had to hire constables to keep the bun crowd from getting too unruly.

There are all kinds of folk beliefs about hot cross buns. Some hold that hanging a bun in your kitchen on Good Friday will protect it for the next year. Others say that a crumb from that bun has magical curative properties. They’re also believed to prevent against drowning.

And of course the method of making the cross is very controversial. Should it be scored with a knife? Made from bits of dough laid on top? Rows of candied fruit? Icing?? Everyone has an opinion and is sure their method is correct.