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In lieu of an actual BiH trip, I'm going to embark on a virtual one via the magic of photos, memories, and Twitter. The trip starts in the bottom corner of Herzegovina, in #Trebinje. Bloody hell! What a gorgeous town. Will spend three nights here, methinks.
Coffee first though, the most important meal of the day. Stopped for a brew at Hedonija, with a gorgeous view of the Trebišnjica and a darling location for exploring Trebinje's Stari Grad. Time for a wander!
A morning spent walking around Trebinje's old town, one of the best-preserved Stari Grads in BiH. A collection of narrow streets that converge on one square, home to the 18thC Osman Pasha Mosque. Naming a mosque after yourself was a surefire way to get executed back in t'day.
Also spent a little bit of time in the Museum of Herzegovina, the best museum in town. All you ever needed to know about this region of Herzegovina, spread across three charming floors.
Stopped for lunch at Kolo, one of the best restaurants in the Stari Grad, a solid place for traditional Bosnian dishes and more contemporary options. Efficent as heck too, which is always nice. Now, back to the exploring, got to go see a man about a bridge...
Mosied out to the Arslanagić Bridge. I'm looking forward to exploring the stone bridges of BiH over the coming weeks! Completed in 1574, the bridge originally sat 10km upstream, but was moved to make way for a dam in the '60s. Arslan-aga? He was the toll guy, back in the day.
They say you are never more than 10 metres away from a cock and balls graffiti. Time to walk up a big hill to see a damn gorgeous church now. In a bit!
https://billsjohn.wordpress.com/2019/02/19/a-currency-for-the-cat-trebinje-and-a-cock-and-balls-bridge/
https://billsjohn.wordpress.com/2019/02/19/a-currency-for-the-cat-trebinje-and-a-cock-and-balls-bridge/
Long ol' walk that, but worth every step. Based on its namesake in Kosovo, the Hercegovačka Gračanica was completed in 2000 and somehow manages to tick both the 'imposing' and 'cute' boxes, a combo previously thought impossible. [p: Ollirg].
![Long ol' walk that, but worth every step. Based on its namesake in Kosovo, the Hercegovačka Gračanica was completed in 2000 and somehow manages to tick both the 'imposing' and 'cute' boxes, a combo previously thought impossible. [p: Ollirg].](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EVGJSCLWkAAZPBD.jpg "Long ol' walk that, but worth every step. Based on its namesake in Kosovo, the Hercegovačka Gračanica was completed in 2000 and somehow manages to tick both the 'imposing' and 'cute' boxes, a combo previously thought impossible. [p: Ollirg].")
The church houses the remains of one Jovan Dučić, the most important poet that Trebinje has ever produced. The town is sort of one big love letter to Dučić (and his moustache) in truth, with statues, streets, graffiti and the rest. He loved this town. [p: Goran Vrhovac)
Holy moly, what a view. Heading back down into town now, for some food and some of the best craft beer in Bosnia and Herzegovina. An excellent start! [p: Alexandr Medvedkov]
![Holy moly, what a view. Heading back down into town now, for some food and some of the best craft beer in Bosnia and Herzegovina. An excellent start! [p: Alexandr Medvedkov]](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EVGK9LlWoAswnpu.jpg "Holy moly, what a view. Heading back down into town now, for some food and some of the best craft beer in Bosnia and Herzegovina. An excellent start! [p: Alexandr Medvedkov]")
Yikes, a bit of a hangover this morning. Started off at OZ Craft Pivo, now running The Brick in the heart of the old town. Andrew makes some damn fine pivo, that is for sure. Morning coffee at Platani on Trg Slobode, a day of monastery hopping awaits. [p:Nixy Jungle]
![Yikes, a bit of a hangover this morning. Started off at OZ Craft Pivo, now running The Brick in the heart of the old town. Andrew makes some damn fine pivo, that is for sure. Morning coffee at Platani on Trg Slobode, a day of monastery hopping awaits. [p:Nixy Jungle]](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EVJOaCIU0AESIJY.jpg "Yikes, a bit of a hangover this morning. Started off at OZ Craft Pivo, now running The Brick in the heart of the old town. Andrew makes some damn fine pivo, that is for sure. Morning coffee at Platani on Trg Slobode, a day of monastery hopping awaits. [p:Nixy Jungle]")
One note about Trg Slobode, before I head to Duži. It was here that Srđan Aleksić, a soldier in the RS Army, was murdered in '93. Aleksić saw a group of drunk colleagues harassing a Bosniak in the square and told them to stop. They preceded to beat him to death.
The man that Srđan saved was Alen Glavović, who managed to get out of BiH and now lives in Sweden with his wife and children. He visits Srđan's father every year.
First stop on the monastery tour? Tvrdoš, obviously. [p: fototocam]
![The man that Srđan saved was Alen Glavović, who managed to get out of BiH and now lives in Sweden with his wife and children. He visits Srđan's father every year. First stop on the monastery tour? Tvrdoš, obviously. [p: fototocam]](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EVJQCV7UUAE2iSt.jpg "The man that Srđan saved was Alen Glavović, who managed to get out of BiH and now lives in Sweden with his wife and children. He visits Srđan's father every year. First stop on the monastery tour? Tvrdoš, obviously. [p: fototocam]")
First stop on the monastery tour? Tvrdoš, obviously. [p: fototocam]
Built on the foundations of a 4th century church on the banks of the Trebišnjica, this place has seen it all. Tvrdoš is a living monastery, and it just so happens to produce some seriously good wine. Wine in the morning? I'm vicariously travelling here, I can do what I like!
From Tvrdoš I went on to Duži, although I stopped at Grad Sunce to check out dinosaurs. One of the most important rules of travel is that if you see a dinosaur, you should take a picture with it. Rules is rules.
Anyway, Duži. A little different to your average monastery, right? Well, this 17th-century beauty was built in order to house monks who fled Tvrdoš when the latter was destroyed, and today it houses one of the most important frescoes in the region.
I also saw this sweet cow, which was cool.
The monastery tour continued with St Peter and St Paul, because there is always a St Peter and a St Paul. St Paul's Cave is nearby, a place with water that supposedly helps women who are unable to get pregnant. I'm not a woman who is trying to get pregnant. Time for lunch!
Day two lunch was enjoyed at Studenac, and I think you can just leave me here now. 4km outside of @gotrebinje, this tends to be the answer to 'what is the best place to eat here?', and the answer is correct. Delicious, idyllic, magic. Time to visit an old fortress...
A few km outside of Trebinje, Strač Fortress is an Austro-Hungarian construction designed to keep the town under control. The place is ruined today, but then fortresses should be ruined, right?
Back in town now, checking out the Church of Holy Transfiguration, the WW2 monument in the park and the sombre Spomen Soba. Will be having a small dinner at the supermarket.
I'm talking about the darling Market 99, by the way. A light dinner before a beer or two at Poeta, with a gorgeous view of the park. Tomorrow? Lakes, baby.
My last virtual day in Trebinje starts with coffee and breakfast at Botanik. Every time I've been to this place it has been heaving with people, which should tell you all you need to know. Excellent coffee, modern ambience, splendid garden.
So, what to do today? Well, the temperature is going to nip towards the early 20s by the afternoon, so will head out to Lake Bileća and be very, very lazy. Am enjoying a collection of Dučić's poems, and reading by a lake is the absolute best.
Anyway, picnic packed (by which I mean snacks and a Srbo Pivo mega mix), bus ticket acquired, books in tow. To Bileća!
When there's a lake, you read by it. One day, accessing the island in the heart of Bileća will be easier, but that day is not around the corner. Back to Trebinje for one last evening, a few glasses of OZ at The Brick methinks.
Tomorrow is another day, another destination. Should I travel northeast towards Foča and Sutjeska, or northwest towards Stolac? I think I'll decide after the third glass of OZ...
As per, I woke up in the middle of the night and made a decision. Hello Stolac! Did you know that this is the oldest town in Bosnia and Herzegovina? You do now! Time to explore the centre of town before heading out to check out some weird-ass medieval tombstones. [p: SCraitza]
![As per, I woke up in the middle of the night and made a decision. Hello Stolac! Did you know that this is the oldest town in Bosnia and Herzegovina? You do now! Time to explore the centre of town before heading out to check out some weird-ass medieval tombstones. [p: SCraitza]](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EVT_TVwWAAA6EMo.jpg "As per, I woke up in the middle of the night and made a decision. Hello Stolac! Did you know that this is the oldest town in Bosnia and Herzegovina? You do now! Time to explore the centre of town before heading out to check out some weird-ass medieval tombstones. [p: SCraitza]")
Stolac is a delight of a little town, but I'm not about to deny that the stećci are the main event. Radimlja is stećak heaven, a necropolis 3km outside of Stolac that is home to loads of the decorated medieval tombs. Most of these tombs are from the late 15thC.
The history tour continues! Leave Radimlja behind and head to the other side of Stolac, where you'll find Begovina. What's in Begovina? Only the old home of Ali-pasha Rizvanbegović and his bros. A little exploration of the Rizvanbegović complex is a must.
The history of BiH is full of fascinating folks, like ol' Mr Rizvanbegović. He was the vizier of Herzegovina in the 19thC, a position he was given when he helped quash the rebellion of ZMAJ OD BOSNE. The Ottomans were still suspicious, and eventually they lopped off his bonce.
My bonce is still on my shoulders, and its time for a virtual meal. To the Old Mill! Dinner with next to a waterfall? Don't mind if I do! Only one night in Stolac, but more Herzegovina tomorrow.
Sunday by the sea! Easter Sunday isn't the best time to visit towns in the Balkans, truth be told, but that isn't so important. I'm in Neum to gaze at the sea after all. [p: Alexey Fedorenko]
![Sunday by the sea! Easter Sunday isn't the best time to visit towns in the Balkans, truth be told, but that isn't so important. I'm in Neum to gaze at the sea after all. [p: Alexey Fedorenko]](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EVYzDKtWoAYxCRn.jpg "Sunday by the sea! Easter Sunday isn't the best time to visit towns in the Balkans, truth be told, but that isn't so important. I'm in Neum to gaze at the sea after all. [p: Alexey Fedorenko]")
Neum is a curiosity, isn't it? Bosnia and Herzegovina has a whole 12 miles of coastline, which you could traverse in a day's walking. How did that come to pass? A little Sunday reading for you, as I wonder whether I could swim to Pelješac... https://billsjohn.wordpress.com/2019/02/12/a-currency-for-the-cat-why-neum-is-neum-and-other-things/
A lazy Sunday by the sea is as good a time as any to shill some BiH-centric #reading, to help you with a bit of armchair #travel. Enjoy! https://www.inyourpocket.com/banja-luka/books-to-help-you-armchair-travel-around-bosnia_77696f
Truth be told, there isn't a huge amount of things to do in Neum. Is that important? Lord no, not every town needs to be full of museums, galleries, cafes and the rest. The BiH seaside is all about tranquility. Travel must be about the same, from time to time.
Early dart this morning, time to leave lovely Neum behind. Still, waking up by the sea never gets old. Time to head inland, for a little more of Herzegovina.
First stop? Čapljina, where I'll be based for a couple of nights, giving me ample time to explore Hutovo Blato, Mogorjelo, Počitelj and Čapljina itself. You thought Sarajevo was the only town that gets a cute two-tower Catholic Church at the end of a street hobby? Think again.
