Can't wait to start the walk again!
Oh wait: I'm sure they'll have some good lassi. What do you think?

"How Dhaba Lassi Pauses The Walk Before It Begins"

Near Bakhtiyarpur, Bihar.

Between 2018 & 2019, I walked with journalist @PaulSalopek on the @outofedenwalk
#EdenWalk
Hunting for a steel tumbler for water on the road (and thus avoid plastic use), but need one with a handle to buckle it on the bag.We did get one; it clanked all the way to the Karbi hills, with every footstep.
Purnea, Bihar.

On @outofedenwalk #EdenWalk with @PaulSalopek in 2019
"The highway is that side."
"But this is the short cut?"
"But that's the highway."
"Ok, we'll go through the swamp by boat."
"Why are you doing this?"
One of the 1,000 times we got raised eyebrows when we said we are walking, not on highways.
Gangaili Arazi, Bihar.
@outofedenwalk
Skewers: on bamboo, of dried dung, to be used as fuel.
Maranga, Bihar.

Between 2018 & 2019, I walked with journalist @PaulSalopek on his epic @outofedenwalk.
I was supposed to walk only up to Gwalior.
So every km walking eastward thereafter was a prayer in gratitude.
#EdenWalk
"Remember son, every bridge is built by the lowest bidder."
Madhopara, Bihar.

Treading on soft ground, on the @outofedenwalk with @PulitzerPrizes-winning journalist @PaulSalopek
#EdenWalk
Rose-tinted dhaba light.
A cold and yet warm night.
The place? It's name sounds about right.
Gulab Bagh, Bihar.

Photo from early 2019, while walking—and scouting for night stops—with journalist @PaulSalopek on the @outofedenwalk that traces the path of human #migration
#EdenWalk
A long list of dignitaries who are exempted from paying toll on the High Way.
Chikni, Bihar.

Contemplating high and low and non-existent roads, on the @outofedenwalk with journalist @PaulSalopek

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
"Writings on the wall" is usually served as premonition.
A school does it differently: a play of words, on practising mercy & thus finding Rehman or Bhagwaan (=God).
Biswaspur, Bihar.

Walking on @outofedenwalk with the wise @PaulSalopek; fuelled by mercy of strangers.
#EdenWalk
Growing food.
Pausing with food.
Malahariya, Bihar.

On the @outofedenwalk almost a year ago, with @PaulSalopek
#EdenWalk
When the leaves by the river—its sand, mined—wore powder.
Gurihar, Bihar.

Dusting off precious dust in February 2019, with journalist @PaulSalopek on the @outofedenwalk that traces the path of human #migration

#EdenWalk
"Hello, Sir, where you come from?"
"Where do you come from?"
"Where you going Sir?"
"Where are you going?"
"Can I take photo with you?"
"If you walk with me."
"Okay bye."
Gurihar, Bihar.

The conversation pattern between passing men & @PaulSalopek on the @outofedenwalk
#EdenWalk
Omelette power for long days.
Kishanganj, Bihar.

Using food to pause on the @outofedenwalk. Always.
With @PaulSalopek, whose appetite for stories surpasses that for food (unless it's omelette, or something flavoured with chocolate)
#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Motor bike
On a manual boat.
Tarabari, Bihar.

Shortcuts? Anyday.
This time, a hypotenuse meant a river-crossing, with journalist @PaulSalopek on the @outofedenwalk that traces the path of human #migration
I'm sure our ancestors didn't do shortcuts.
#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Motor bike
On a manual boat.
Tarabari, Bihar.

Shortcuts? Anyday.
This time, a hypotenuse meant a river-crossing, with journalist @PaulSalopek on the @outofedenwalk that traces the path of human #migration
I'm sure our ancestors didn't do shortcuts.
#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
The only guiding light was the moon.
Neither us nor they were visible.
"Yes, this is a mosque. You're welcome here."
Dinner showed up; blankets too.
Bajardih, Bihar.

The @outofedenwalk that the kind @PaulSalopek has been on, has been a journey in brave vulnerability.
#EdenWalk
The first greeting—in light—between weary walking guests for the night, and generous curious hosts.
Bajardih, Bihar.

Counting on the generosity of every person that welcomes us into their space for the night, on the @outofedenwalk with journalist @PaulSalopek.
#EdenWalk
Movement through mist.
Bajardih, Bihar.

Waking up early to walk, to avoid afternoon sun.
Wake-up alarm? Chaai brought in by gentle hosts.

On the @outofedenwalk with @PulitzerPrizes-winning journalist @PaulSalopek in February 2019.
#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Until that bridge comes up—who knows when, using god knows how many tons of sand mined from riverbeds—it's gonna be a boat for all.
Along Kankai river, Bihar.

Walking the path of questioning the meaning of "development", with journalist @PaulSalopek on @outofedenwalk
#EdenWalk
Curiosity begets curiosity.
At times, I wish I had more patience with theirs.
Along Fulahar river, Bihar.

The @outofedenwalk was, among many other things, a test of my patience and a check on my arrogance.
With the much-kinder @PaulSalopek in February 2019.
#EdenWalk
"Where are you going?"
"We are on a yatra." [pilgrimage]
"Which God?"
Along Fulahar river, Bihar.

The @outofedenwalk with the brilliant and beautiful @PaulSalopek has been nothing less than a pilgrimage.
February 2019.
#EdenWalk
The @outofedenwalk is also a story of friendships glued with sweat, chaai, GPS, night-roof & chocolate hunts.
@PaulSalopek walks with Walking Partners. And we're one global family.

Uzbekistan Walking Partner, the lovely Aziz Khalmuradov joined us for few days in Bihar.
#EdenWalk
Definitely more than merely #13ReasonsWhy some rural bathrooms are most ecological, without even trying to be so.
Especially refreshing after a long day of walking.
Jairampur, Bihar.

Decoding buzzwords thru people's lives experiences, on the @outofedenwalk
#EdenWalk #sanitation
Night at the school: animal feed as insulation under plastic mat bed, tall pile of roti & mango pickle for dinner, scared animal in the next room, wedding music until morning, spectators with torchlight to check us out.
Jairampur, Bihar.

On the @outofedenwalk, Feb 2019 #EdenWalk
Sun is shining
Weather is sweet
Spring leaves singing
And no sweaty smelly feet.
Near Nehuri, Bihar.
.
Windows communicating to @PaulSalopek and I, on the @outofedenwalk in February 2019.
#EdenWalk
Soul food.
From the Jungle Book.
Kishanganj, Bihar.

Snacking along the @outofedenwalk with journalist @PaulSalopek has been a culinary adventure.
#EdenWalk
One fixes bicycles.
The other: beards.
Kishanganj, Bihar.

On the @outofedenwalk with journalist @PaulSalopek.
February 2019.
#EdenWalk
A river pushed & pulled: this is where the farmlands were, always.
Few years ago, it flowed in.
It has retreated way beyond now, turning farmlands into sand dunes: with food that cannot be grown & sand that cannot be legally mined.
Abdelbhita, Bihar.

On @outofedenwalk #EdenWalk
Spa day.
Ghurna, Bihar.

Won't lie: walking miles & miles on the @outofedenwalk, stewing in sweaty clothes, the vision of a hot shower would keep me going for miles.
And @PaulSalopek? Spa hour at every stop, soaking his gamcha in water & soaking his head in that gamcha.
#EdenWalk
ā¤†ā¤œā¤ž ā¤ŽāĨ‡ā¤°āĨ‡ ā¤—ā¤žā¤Ąā¤ŧāĨ€ ā¤ŽāĨ‡ā¤‚ ā¤ŦāĨˆā¤  ā¤œā¤ž!
Simply cannot be translated with that chutzpah:
"Come & sit in my car!"
Naah. Doesn't work.
Patkoi Kala, Bihar.

So we walked on.
Won't lie: sometimes just hopping on a vehicle was definitely tempting.
@PaulSalopek knows this.

@outofedenwalk #EdenWalk
ā¤Ēā¤—ā¤Ąā¤‚ā¤ĄāĨ€
But is there any English word as beautiful to describe such farm paths?
Damdama, Bihar.

I'd slow my pace, reminiscing that delicate song featuring Akshaye Khanna & Pooja Bhatt from the movie "Border", each time I'd walk past a ā¤Ēā¤—ā¤Ąā¤‚ā¤ĄāĨ€ while on the @outofedenwalk
#EdenWalk
Midday snack: samosa.
Samosa serving plate: newspaper.
Newspaper news: dengue & Diptera (mozzies, houseflies).
Snacking company: houseflies.
Sukhani, Bihar.

Yeah, I know, we're all connected, and all that jazz.
#KeepingItReal on the @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek
#EdenWalk
India, segregated.
Rasia, Bihar.

One moment we'd be smothered with love by strangers. The next we'd realize the lines drawn through people's lives: like this hamlet, outside the village center.
Walking between the lines on the @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek last year
#EdenWalk
Tuning in.
Rasia, Bihar.

Seeking wisdom in the benevolence of trees, on the @outofedenwalk last year, with @PaulSalopek.
#EdenWalk
The vision of the promise of several yummy dishes.
āĻ•āĻžāĻš āĻ•āĻ˛. Musa splendida.
Rasia, Bihar.

Salivating over imaginary plates of sliced plantain, deep-fried in mustard oil: that's how I powered through many miles on the @outofedenwalk with journalist @PaulSalopek last year
#EdenWalk
Goddesses. Waiting to be draped, bought, worshipped and drowned.
But this one is Saraswati: goddess of the arts.
Inspiring us to "take your broken heart and make it art".
Balka Sobha, Bihar.

Walking on the @outofedenwalk last year with literary artist @PaulSalopek
#EdenWalk
What's a hearth without a heart?
Of course my "antakshari" mind woke up, upon coming across the obvious verb in all Bollywood songs.

Chapati, Bihar.

On the @outofedenwalk last year, I tried to preach the gospel of Bollywood music to @PaulSalopek.
He didn't sing along.
#EdenWalk
For after every night, no matter how torrid, comes the light of dawn.

Chapati, Bihar.

Walking through canopies of abundance, on the @outofedenwalk last year with @PaulSalopek.
#EdenWalk
Dhaba gods on soot walls.

Sabodangi, Bihar.

On the @outofedenwalk last year with @PaulSalopek
#EdenWalk
Baking bricks for homes, unaffordable.
Tatpaua, Bihar.

Workers of the world.... Bound together by undelivered rights.
On the @outofedenwalk last year with @PaulSalopek
#EdenWalk
Always fun to stare at ceiling for hours. Even if it shelters just for the night.
Reminiscing kindness on @outofedenwalk when it seems impossible: the doctor who took us in when everyone was wary; the doctor who conducts abortions when nobody else would.
Chapati, Bihar.
#EdenWalk
Mirrored faces, full of questions.

Tatpaua, Bihar.

Not often would we encounter women, while walking through north-central India on the @outofedenwalk. For those who asked us questions, @PaulSalopek and I were glad to pause and chat.
#EdenWalk
Amid the madness, let's not forget: spring has sprung.

Reminiscing a pretty scene from Dallegaon, Bihar, on the @outofedenwalk with journalist @PaulSalopek last year.

#EdenWalk
Signs of walking east: superfood "sattu".
Surprised to see it packaged as a brand.
Proves it's indeed the mighty food here.
Dallegaon, Bihar.

@outofedenwalk was full of signs & symbols, marking thresholds of what we wouldn't see again, and everything new we'd see. Up to a point.
I scream.
You scream.
We all scream.
For ice-cream.

Noniatari, Bihar.

This elixir for miles and miles, the sight of which would make @PaulSalopek drop all conversations. Always.
Cheap—and necessary—thrills, on the @outofedenwalk last year.
#EdenWalk
Long-distance truck drivers' love notes to long-distance lovers.
"Don't cry silly; I'll be back soon."
"Don't laugh silly; I'll fall in love."
Gothra, Bihar.

On the @outofedenwalk in 2019 with @PaulSalopek
The morning-after reward for my longest walk day (at 38.4 kms), and the marker of entry into a new state: āĻ—ā§āĻ°ā§‡āĻ° āĻ°āĻ¸āĻ—ā§āĻ˛ā§‹

Galgalia, West Bengal.

When sweating it out would often bring in sweet rewards with @PaulSalopek, on the @outofedenwalk in 2019.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Slayer of everything that's a farce: Kali.

Bhajanpur, West Bengal.

My personal markers that we're heading east, with cultural symbols I recognise best, on the @outofedenwalk in 2019, with @PaulSalopek.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Clay play: a stove, and an underground water coolant.
Katia, West Bengal.

On the @outofedenwalk in 2019.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
A whole ecosystem of spices and flavours and textures reside in those containers carried by the āĻāĻžāĻ˛āĻŽā§āĻĄāĻŧāĻŋ walla.
Katia, West Bengal.

Sweating and salivating: two-part involuntary actions during the @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek in 2019.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Fish tales from a fresh catch.
Imagining fish fry in mustard oil (with fluffy rice and one fried chilli).
Dohaguri, West Bengal.

Sweating and salivating on the @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek in 2019.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Clay gods and newspaper pause.
Budhsing, West Bengal.

Identifying the taxonomy of gods when they are undressed is a bit challenging. Nevertheless, fun.

On the @outofedenwalk wih @PaulSalopek in 2019.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Julienned potato fried in mustard oil; one dry red chilli thrown in.
The Boudi is prepping to fry baigan.
Man behind gets these goldies.
Did I eat? No: was grumpy about some shit 5kms prior.
Saheburam, West Bengal.

Regrets frm @outofedenwalk #EdenWalk that I'll carry to my grave
The soothing red signals on the walk.
Saheburam, West Bengal.

Pondering over politics, ideologies, philosophies and realities with @PaulSalopek on the @outofedenwalk in 2019.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Two steps ahead, two steps behind, but always moving—and pivoting—in tandem.
Tukriajhar, West Bengal.

What an honour & privilege it has been to be able to walk on the @outofedenwalk across India with the lovely human & ice-cream lover @PaulSalopek 🙏🏾

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
There's a multi-billion $ pharma industry, out of reach to tiny pockets.
And there's the jari-booti guy in every town, selling magical herbs for every ailment, w/ photo testimonials of who's-who who found succour in his brown powders.
Uttar Ramdhan, West Bengal.

@outofedenwalk
Is that Kartik (god of war) or Biswakarma (god of architecture & engineering) on the left?
Is that Yama (god of death) or Hanuman (god of strength) on the right?
Even gods can be abandoned in sheds: nobody is indispensable.
Uttar Ramdhan, West Bengal.

On @outofedenwalk #EdenWalk
The revolution may not be televized, but it will definitely be merchandized.
Uttar Ramdhan, West Bengal.

Did you know most revolutionary revelations began with long road trips? @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek
woke the đŸ’Ē🏾 within myself—but only on days with cool breeze & no mud.
"Sometimes, history needs a push." — Lenin.
Naxalbari, West Bengal.

Contemplating about people who shake systems, leaving a legacy that's beautifully complex.
A long pause—an obeisance—to the Naxalbari legacy for giving peasants the permission to dream.

@outofedenwalk #EdenWalk
A tin shed, with limitless possibilities: pay obeisance to martyrs who questioned class inequities, or dance away the fruits of revolution.
Naxalbari, West Bengal.

Walking thru invisible boundaries of time and space, with @PaulSalopek on @outofedenwalk

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Turn Left, and it's the legacy of peasant armed resistance.
North takes you to flights of alternate reality: that's where the airport is.
Geni, West Bengal.

Counting ironies with @PaulSalopek on the @outofedenwalk in 2019.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Love comes in many forms.
On that rainy afternoon, it came in the form of āĻ–āĻŋāĻšā§āĻ°āĻŋ, āĻ˛āĻŦā§āĻ°āĻž and āĻŽāĻžāĻ› āĻ­āĻžāĻœāĻž in @NuraRadha's home.
Siesta was imminent.
Siliguri, West Bengal.

On the #EdenWalk @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek, the way to walking to my heart's content was thru my stomach
The daily commute.
Island living.
Surviving rivers.
Dhubri Bazaar, Assam.

Identities, origins, destinations: all morph into one another when commerce hangs by a thin thread of eroding riverbeds.
On the @outofedenwalk in 2019 with @PaulSalopek

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
A tricky pause before the shore.
Then, a wobble.
Arrival, finally.
Disembarkation is a delicate ballet of shifting weight.
Dhubri Bazaar, Assam.

The story of movement of people across space is also the story of risks & chances.
On the @outofedenwalk #EdenWalk with @PaulSalopek
"The nobodies: who are not human beings, but human resources."
Dhubri Bazaar, Assam.

On the @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek the words of Eduardo Galeano rang in my ears far too often:
"Fleas dream of buying themselves a dog, and nobodies dream of escaping poverty."

#EdenWalk
The river ferries people and onions, and more. Without asking for any identity status or origins.
Dhubri Bazaar, Assam.

The temporary amnesia of identity questions in the face of trade priorities.
On the @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
The river welcomes the goddess after their annual trip to the earth.
A mighty river that welcomes the mighty goddess, Kali.
Dhubri Bazaar, Assam.

Between heaven and hell and nature, are angry rivers that are used as waste dumps. On the @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek

#EdenWalk
Women and men working at brick kilns without safety gear or health insurance or pension fund: another brick in the wall.
Geramari, Assam.

One of the most complex scenes during @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek was the gratitude of workers for having a backbreaking job.

#EdenWalk
The chimney billows not just smoke from a furnace that bakes hundreds of thousands of bricks, but also the sweat and grime of the brick kiln workers who may not be able to afford a home with their meager wages.
Geramari, Assam.

Counting ironies on the @outofedenwalk #EdenWalk
10 unbaked bricks on the head.
Several sprinting trips to the earth oven with these.
Rs 136 per 1,000 bricks.
Eight hours a day.
Geramari, Assam.

The human body is the cheapest commodity.
On the @outofedenwalk in 2019 with @PaulSalopek

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
How do you encapsulate the vast incredibility of a brick kiln, without interrupting the sprint of women & men for whom every pause can cost their wages?
Geramari, Assam

This is just one brick kiln; a synecdoche for thousands whose names don't appear on any roster.
@outofedenwalk
A street flavour, now packaged for air-conditioned stores: āĻāĻžāĻ˛āĻŽā§āĻĄāĻŧāĻŋ of Bengal or the copy-cat āĻŽā§ā§°āĻŋ of Assam.
Gossaigaon, Assam.

When cultural markers are developed into a brand, it's more the mark of local ingenuity than venture capitalism.
Lessons from @outofedenwalk

#EdenWalk
"But what about me?"
The paths into quiet simmering of unrest; of wanting to be seen and heard and have space.
Gossaigaon, Assam.

On the @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
"No man should ever die of shame of not being able to feed his guest."
So āĻ¤āĻžāĻŽā§‹āĻ˛ (areca nut) came to be that universal food item which everyone, irrespective of their wealth or social status, could offer to a guest.
Bhowraguri Mandarpara, Assam

On @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek
An assortment of gods in the making; gods whose bellies have grown to keep up with the times.
Bhowraguri Mandarpara, Assam.

Conducting a mental anthropology of men, class and their belly sizes, on the @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek in 2019.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Their bodies worshipped, and traded.
Their safety and fate decided by men.
The story of cows—and women.
Bhowraguri Mandarpara cow market, Assam.

Sometimes it's envious to be a cow in India than being a woman.
On @outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek in 2019

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
Not just humans, but Gods too show their true color after the initial excitement dies down.
Abandoned after being celebrated, Lord Shiva turned ginger.
Patialpara-Mohendrapur, Assam.

Analysing men, real & mythical, while walking with that wonderful man @PaulSalopek
#EdenWalk
Beyond the cacophony of 24x7 news channels, there's a field of trust & merit in the printed word.
Let's meet there.
Khalisanimari, Assam.

Scenes of assurance that print may not be dead just yet, on the @outofedenwalk with the brilliant @PaulSalopek.

#EdenWalk #slowjournalism
"āĻŦāĻšā§‹ āĻ¤āĻžāĻāĻ¤ā§° āĻĒāĻžāĻ¤āĻ¤
āĻšāĻ•ā§ āĻ†āĻ˛āĻŋ āĻŦāĻžāĻŸāĻ¤"
"I sit and weave on the loom
With eyes on the street (for you)"
Khalisanimari, Assam.

@outofedenwalk with @PaulSalopek has inasmuch been about eyes on the street (the next dhaba or moment of aha), as about weaving words to do justice to what we see.
A certain shade.
A certain weave.
Khalisanimari, Assam.

Noticing the subtle hues that mark an identity; a community.
On the @outofedenwalk @PaulSalopek in 2019.

#slowjournalism #EdenWalk
I continue to be amazed by the strength of the women I encounter. This moment was similar: knowing the grit it requires to wear āĻŽā§‡āĻ–ā§‡āĻ˛āĻž āĻšāĻžāĻĻā§° & ride miles to school.
Choutara, Assam.

Thinking how women only seek justice instead of revenge, in a patriarchal world. On @outofedenwalk
"Tell me one more time my clothes were asking for it."
Chithilagram, Assam.

Thinking of all the times when women ask for dignity but don't get it, and the times when they don't ask for BS but are doused in it.

On the @outofedenwalk #EdenWalk with the brilliant @PaulSalopek
Gems among weeds: āĻ¸ā§°ā§ āĻŽāĻžāĻ¨āĻŋāĻŽā§āĻ¨āĻŋ (Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides).
The Assamese antidote to any digestive problems.
Moinaguri, Assam.

The antidote to digesting a maddening news cycle is #slowjournalism.
Where to start?
Here: the @outofedenwalk #EdenWalk with the brilliant @PaulSalopek
Give us this day
Our daily cup of caffeine + stimulant
(Our daily wage that's a livable one
Our daily dignity at par with men)
Dalowabari Tea Estate, Assam.

Thinking of all women whose toil is assumed to be part of their anatomy, during This Pandemic & in 2019 while on #EdenWalk
Cafe with curtains = listening to teenage customers.
Kokrajhar, Assam.

Wise women abound, through their quiet and powerful actions, far from headlines. This cafe run by an elderly woman knows the hungry teen spirit, and provides for it. Amen.
On @outofedenwalk #EdenWalk in 2019.
Power boost for a long #EdenWalk day: fried fritters (gone already), Nescafe drunken out of multipurpose steel mug, chocolate treat.
@PaulSalopek ate his own; then eyed the one in my bag, claiming it was his.
Wrapper from the one he ate—crucial evidence—was missing.
Chapar, Assam
āĻŽāĻžāĻ¨āĻŦ āĻĻā§‡āĻšāĻž āĻŽāĻžāĻŸāĻŋā§° āĻ­āĻžāĻŖā§āĻĄ
āĻ­āĻžāĻ™āĻŋāĻ˛ā§‡ āĻšā§ˆāĻŦā§‡ āĻ–āĻŖā§āĻĄ ā§°ā§‡ āĻ–āĻŖā§āĻĄ
"The human body is a clay pitcher
When it breaks it'll shatter into pieces."
Pratima Barua Pandey: defying odds with Goalporia folk music, scorned by Assamese linguistic chauvinists.
Chapar, Assam.

Too few women statues on #EdenWalk
What's Avril Lavigne doing in a restaurant decorated with red lace, that's operated by Bodo women, who serve greasy Kerala-style parathas?
Well, it's complicated.
Kokrajhar, Assam.

Nothing like noticing the wonders of the 1990s, while on the @outofedenwalk #EdenWalk in 2019.
"Write
Write Down
I am a Miya
My serial number in the NRC is 200543...
I turn waste, marshy lands
To green paddy fields
To feed you..."
Kheluapara, Assam.

The southern bank of Brahmaputra: a rich harvest of loud discontent from decades of systemic discrimination.

#EdenWalk
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