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1/16
the Sogdian formal banquet takes us to a gathering room in a large house in the residential district of 8c CE Panjikent (present-day Tajikistan). a built-in bench lined this gathering room & life-sized banqueters once lined all four walls
BH
the Sogdian formal banquet takes us to a gathering room in a large house in the residential district of 8c CE Panjikent (present-day Tajikistan). a built-in bench lined this gathering room & life-sized banqueters once lined all four walls
BH
2/16
banqueters sat cross-legged atop an individual cushion with posture upright. The standard attire for all banquet attendees was a two-toned belted kaftan
BH
banqueters sat cross-legged atop an individual cushion with posture upright. The standard attire for all banquet attendees was a two-toned belted kaftan
BH
3/16
Variation between banquets appears foremost in the kaftan color & fabric pattern—each attendee’s is unique (also that of the diminutive server on the left!)
BH
Variation between banquets appears foremost in the kaftan color & fabric pattern—each attendee’s is unique (also that of the diminutive server on the left!)
BH
4/16
red & blue woven patterns are worn by the individuals who also sport the most gold encrusted accessories. These fine-tuned accessories vary by degree of metallic ornamentation, specifically on the belt and purse
BH
red & blue woven patterns are worn by the individuals who also sport the most gold encrusted accessories. These fine-tuned accessories vary by degree of metallic ornamentation, specifically on the belt and purse
BH
5/16
Increased embellishment also correlates with the unbuttoning of the kaftan, in which the panels open to form lapels exposing a contrasting inner lining, & an under tunic collar that matches the kaftan. The other attendees wear their kaftan closed around the neck
BH
Increased embellishment also correlates with the unbuttoning of the kaftan, in which the panels open to form lapels exposing a contrasting inner lining, & an under tunic collar that matches the kaftan. The other attendees wear their kaftan closed around the neck
BH
6/16
Looking closely at posture, the figure in blue sits further forward than any other attendee, as indicated by his knees overlapping his neighbors’ knees. His accessories have more gold than any other banqueter & care is taken to contrast his blue kaftan w/ his accessories
BH
Looking closely at posture, the figure in blue sits further forward than any other attendee, as indicated by his knees overlapping his neighbors’ knees. His accessories have more gold than any other banqueter & care is taken to contrast his blue kaftan w/ his accessories
BH
7/16
the banqueters all wear the kaftan but express a range of subtle social distinctions. No participant is overtly distinguished & each shares more sartorial elements with his fellow banqueters than those that would set his apart.
BH
the banqueters all wear the kaftan but express a range of subtle social distinctions. No participant is overtly distinguished & each shares more sartorial elements with his fellow banqueters than those that would set his apart.
BH
8/16
Dress & accoutrements were not based on fixed rules but broadly defined parameters within which negotiations based on social status were permitted. the kaftan became a sartorial staple in this community– & also among others– b/c of the garment’s exceptionally versatility
BH
Dress & accoutrements were not based on fixed rules but broadly defined parameters within which negotiations based on social status were permitted. the kaftan became a sartorial staple in this community– & also among others– b/c of the garment’s exceptionally versatility
BH
9/16
The kaftan not only has design variations selected during production e.g. fabric pairing, hem length; but more importantly it can be slipped on, adjusted or the lapels could be styled & re-styled effortlessly & instantaneously transforming an individual for a desired role
BH
The kaftan not only has design variations selected during production e.g. fabric pairing, hem length; but more importantly it can be slipped on, adjusted or the lapels could be styled & re-styled effortlessly & instantaneously transforming an individual for a desired role
BH
10/16
The kaftan stood at the center of a sartorial system that was not strict as for example the toga where color, decoration & drape were highly regulated and strictly enforced, but fluid like a modern business suit
BH
The kaftan stood at the center of a sartorial system that was not strict as for example the toga where color, decoration & drape were highly regulated and strictly enforced, but fluid like a modern business suit
BH
11/16
Such a fluidity allows for individuals to assess their social situation and make changes accordingly, in order to continuously order & re-order the appropriate social hierarchy in need
BH
Such a fluidity allows for individuals to assess their social situation and make changes accordingly, in order to continuously order & re-order the appropriate social hierarchy in need
BH
12/16
The lapels provided an effortless way to make occasion & social transformations e.g. stepping from veneration at the temple to a merchant’s business meeting & then on to a celebration; or if approaching someone of more senior rank, closing the lapels easily shows respect
BH
The lapels provided an effortless way to make occasion & social transformations e.g. stepping from veneration at the temple to a merchant’s business meeting & then on to a celebration; or if approaching someone of more senior rank, closing the lapels easily shows respect
BH
13/16
The kaftan became a familiar medium through which social roles could be projected & perceived. The paintings showcasing the hypothetically correct workings of a given social activity provided visual manuals of dress & decorum + the acceptable range of social distinction
BH
The kaftan became a familiar medium through which social roles could be projected & perceived. The paintings showcasing the hypothetically correct workings of a given social activity provided visual manuals of dress & decorum + the acceptable range of social distinction
BH
14/16
There are clear ranges of acceptable distinctions within a region, but also elements shared & thus mutually intelligible between different cultures. Communities did not need to wear the kaftan in exactly the same way in order to be understood cross-culturally
BH
There are clear ranges of acceptable distinctions within a region, but also elements shared & thus mutually intelligible between different cultures. Communities did not need to wear the kaftan in exactly the same way in order to be understood cross-culturally
BH
15/16
Check out the full article about the Sogdian formal banquet: Betty Hensellek, “Banqueting, Dress and the Idealized Sogdian Merchant,” in Fashioned Selves, edited by Megan Cifarelli, 185-199. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2019 ( https://www.oxbowbooks.com/oxbow/fashioned-selves.html)
BH
Check out the full article about the Sogdian formal banquet: Betty Hensellek, “Banqueting, Dress and the Idealized Sogdian Merchant,” in Fashioned Selves, edited by Megan Cifarelli, 185-199. Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2019 ( https://www.oxbowbooks.com/oxbow/fashioned-selves.html)
BH
16/16
And a final tweet of thanks to my colleagues in St. Petersburg who made undertaking all of this research possible-- spasibo bol'shoe Larisa Kulakova, Pavel Lurje & Valerii Nikonorov!!
BH
And a final tweet of thanks to my colleagues in St. Petersburg who made undertaking all of this research possible-- spasibo bol'shoe Larisa Kulakova, Pavel Lurje & Valerii Nikonorov!!
BH
