Mumbai jolts awake, gets a cutting, speeds off to work. Kolkata rouses, searches for his slippers, yawns, stretches and asks for a cup of liquor tea.

There's a strange romance in this city. In its many roads flanked by crumbling, derelict and yet infinitely beautiful buildings.

Several years ago, across governor's house, my companion from a balcony on this house (back when it was still a lavish appartment) watched the city breathe

He heard the whip of water against dusty roads, the groan and jingle of trams go by, the "AY SHON!" of faceless passers-by.

That is where he fell in love with this city, and this, here—on this bit of antiquity on wheels, watched by an unamused conductor—is where i remember why I return, every year to this city.

@aritraganguli

Later today, a larger match will start—thousands will come to watch.

But now, on the lazy borough of 8 o' clock, many small games in Maidan are already underway.

A friend here, with a ringside view.

They too, standing stoically, watching time roll by have had a ringside view—albiet of a larger, more complex game.

In Tirete bazar, Kolkata's oldest Chinese settlement lots has changed. The earlier bustling Chinese market has trickled down into two/three stalls. Its bearers now have more English names.

He though, with his wares, is still here.

Left: Nov 2018
Right: Nov 2019

Satiated by the most delectable buns, baos and momos—all flushed down with a quick "cigaarate and chaa" we make our way to the tram line.

"Dada," we ask a fruit seller, "Will the tram to Bow Bajar come by here?"

"Who knows about these trams?" he laughs.

Depends on the cards time (and Kolkata transport) will deal us today.

As lovers of cities with colonial pasts, we love similar things—dusty buildings, meaningless addresses, broken carvings and history.

As we walk onwards, @aritraganguli keeps on a steady commentary. Ghost stories, literature, popular lore—he is the best guide one could ask for.

Only this isn't just about the showing and guiding. As he sees and guides he smiles and rediscovers; laughs and flirts with his city; tells yet another person where and how and when he fell in love, fought and made up with this Calcutta feeling.