Thread by @caveofbeauty, A thread on treating and preventing skin TEXTURE from your skincare fav [...]

A thread on treating and preventing skin TEXTURE from your skincare fav

here are a few rules:

- I cannot create a full routine for you via Twitter.
- I cannot tell you if a specific product would work for *your* skin via Twitter.

That’s it :) let’s get started!

First, what’s texture & how does it appear on the skin? I’ll use myself as an example when I was in Thailand & my skin reacted to the new environment.

This is a mixture of texture/whiteheads. Texture is skin colored bumps. It can’t be popped, so you shouldn’t try extractions.

What causes texture?

- Your pores become clogged with dead skin cells. (Texture can turn into acne with the presence of sebum, dirt, and bacteria in the pores)
- You’re experiencing dehydration
- Xerosis (chronically dry skin)
- Excessive sun exposure

There’s also something called follicular hyperkeratinization. Let’s break that down, because it’s a huge factor in skin texture, otherwise known as microcomedones.

Keratin is a protein in the skin. There’s soft keratin (skin) and hard keratin (nails).

What is keratinization? Without getting too scientific, it’s essentially the process of your cells shedding. It can happen too quickly, which leads to very dry and flaky skin. Or it can occur too slowly, which results in comedones.

Follicular Hyperkeratinization is when your cells are not shedding, clogging the pores and causing concerns like texture and acne. It’s one of a few keratinization abnormalities.

Here’s some research on it: https://pennstate.pure.elsevier.com/en/publications/the-role-of-follicular-hyperkeratinization-in-acne

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5917548/

The role of follicular hyperkeratinization in acne

https://pennstate.pure.elsevier.com/en/publications/the-role-of-follicular-hyperkeratinization-in-acne

So now we’ve gotten past the science, let’s get to the fun part: treating and preventing skin texture!

You want to make sure you are focusing on promoting healthy barrier function. So, hydrate and moisturize twice daily. Also, exfoliate using AHAs, BHAs, or enzymes. And SPF!

Why hydrate? Because when your barrier is impaired, your skin struggles to focus on treating your other concerns. It’s just focusing on repairing its barrier. Also, an impaired barrier makes your skin sensitized, which means it’ll have difficulty tolerating texture treatments.

Why exfoliate? Because exfoliating aids in desquamation, which is the process of shedding dead skin cells. You need to get those dead skin cells out of your follicles in order to treat texture. But, do NOT over exfoliate. That will make your texture significantly worse.

SPF is crucial because sun damage causes/worsens texture. Sun damage also causes impaired barrier function. And exfoliants make your skin more sensitive to the sun. So....your attempts at treating texture are futile if you’re not wearing SPF because the sun worsens everything.

Now the part I KNOW you guys have been waiting for lol, specific ingredients/products. Let’s start with ingredients.

Hydrating ingredients (Humectants):

- Hyaluronic Acid
- Glycerin
- Urea
- Aloe vera
- Honey
- Sorbitol
- Lactic acid (also an AHA)
- Propylene/butylene glycol

Exfoliating ingredients that target texture:

- Lactic acid is *my* personal favorite. It’s an alpha hydroxy acid that’s also a humectant, meaning it draws water into the skin and hydrates. Super gentle. Well tolerated by even sensitive skin types. A truly superior ingredient!

- Glycolic acid. This is a heavy hitter. Not for the faint of [skin]. It has a low molecular weight (76.05 g/mol). Lactic acid is 90.08 g/mol. So, it is generally not well tolerated by sensitive skin types. But it’s highly effective due to its penetration. Not my fav, still

Glycolic acid has a higher risk of irritation, but of course it depends on the formulation. Higher percentage generally means higher risk of sensitized skin. Which is why I‘m not the biggest fan because it can easily lead to an impaired barrier if used improperly and, texture.

- Salicylic acid, a BHA (beta hydroxy acid). It’s a desmolytic agent, which means it breaks apart the bonds that hold our skin cells together, helping to remove them from our follicles. It’s *amazing* if you have oily, acne prone skin and texture simultaneously.

Be careful with salicylic acid if you have dry skin as it can cause further dryness because it is lipophilic. This means it’s able to penetrate/break down oil, so it can easily lead to dryness and/or dehydration, which can lead to impaired barrier function and texture.

I should’ve listed this right after lactic acid, because it’s a GEM for treating texture.

- Azelaic acid. It’s the best for sensitive skin types, and is often prescribed for rosacea patients because of it’s ability to refine texture and reduce redness. 11/10 recommend!

Generally, you’ll have to get a prescription for it which sucks. But prescription strength (15-20%), in my experience, has been a bit more effective than OTC (<10%) at treating texture.

BUT, formulation matters & there’s an amazing OTC azelaic acid product I’ll mention shortly.

Azelaic acid is not as exfoliating to the skin as AHAs and BHAs. But it’s still amazing at treating texture, gently. And reducing redness. And healing inflamed, acneic skin. And treating hyperpigmentation/melasma. Safe to use while pregnant, too!

Next up are retinoids. Retinoids are actually not exfoliants. They work at the beginning of the cell cycle and affect epithelial cells by regulating their growth. AHA/BHAs work at the end of the cycle & slough off dead skin cells by getting rid of the “glue” like substance.

Retinoids work on a cellular level, AHAs/BHAs work on a surface level. Both are effective, retinoids tend to be more irritating to the skin and can cause retinoid dermatitis. But, they are highly effective at treating texture, amongst other concerns.

Some examples of retinoids are adapalene (Differin) & tretinoin (Retin-A). Adapalene is a bit more gentle, but still highly effective. Unfortunately retinoids have to be prescribed, unless you get a retinol. Retinols can be found OTC, but they are much weaker than retinoids.

Now that we’ve covered ingredients that treat microcomedones (texture), lets get into specific products!

Full disclosure: every product listed is one I have either personally used, or would personally use and recommend to clients. Some may have an affiliate link, some won’t.

We’ll start with hydrators! I’ll do a mix of affordable and high end.

- The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid, $7.99 https://shopstyle.it/l/626z #ad
- Cerave Hyaluronic Acid Serum, $18.99 https://shopstyle.it/l/626M #ad
- Vichy Mineral 89 Serum, $19.99 https://shopstyle.it/l/626U #ad

Also, I disclose with #ad for the sake of transparency for affiliate links. Not because I am directly affiliated with these brands. I’m not. But if you want to support my content, affiliate links is an easy way to do so.

Back to hydrators!

- @PaulasChoice Hyaluronic Acid Booster, $36.99 https://shopstyle.it/l/627m #ad
- PCA Skin Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Serum, $115 https://shopstyle.it/l/627p #ad
- Dr. Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Marine Booster, $68 https://shopstyle.it/l/627u #ad

Hydrators:

- Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench, $65 https://shopstyle.it/l/627E #ad
- @DelishCondish Peprally Serum, $25 http://www.delishcondish.com/product/pep-rally-super-serum
- The Ordinary 2% Hyaluronic Acid + B5, $7 https://theordinary.com/product/rdn-hyaluronic-acid-2pct-b5-30ml?redir=1
- CosRx Hyaluronic Acid Power Essence, $22 https://shopstyle.it/l/628Y #ad

The Ordinary | Clinical Formulations with Integrity | A DECIEM Brand

The Ordinary is an evolving collection of treatments offering familiar, effective clinical technologies positioned to raise integrity in skincare.

https://shopstyle.it/l/627E

Chemical exfoliant products that treat texture:

- The Ordinary 10% Lactic Acid + HA, $7 https://shopstyle.it/l/629Z #ad
- The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution, $7 https://shopstyle.it/l/6293 #ad
- First said Beauty Resurfacing Liquid 10% AHA, $55 https://shopstyle.it/l/6297 #ad

Exfoliants:

- @PaulasChoice 2% BHA Liquid, $30 https://shopstyle.it/l/63dB #ad
- @FarmacyBeauty Honey Moon Glow, $58 https://shopstyle.it/l/63bR #ad
- Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Sleeping Mask, $45 https://shopstyle.it/l/63bS #ad

More chemical exfoliants:

- @DelishCondish Pumpkin Mask, $18 http://www.delishcondish.com/product/everything-but-the-crust-pumpkin-mask
- @youthtotheppl 11% AHA Toner, $38 https://shopstyle.it/l/63dZ #ad
- Good Molecules Overnight Exfoliating Treatment, $6 https://www.beautylish.com/s/good-molecules-over-night-exfoliating-treatment

Everything But The Crust Pumpkin Mask

This mask leaves skin feeling replenished, brightened and softly renewed. It's creamy, antioxidant and enzyme-rich and smells delicious as it...

http://www.delishcondish.com/product/everything-but-the-crust-pumpkin-mask

The main OTC Azelaic Acid Treatments I’ve used & would highly recommend:

- @PaulasChoice 10% azelaic acid booster, $36 https://shopstyle.it/l/63d4 #ad
- @PaulasChoice Antioxidant Pore Purifier, $31 https://shopstyle.it/l/63b5 #ad
- PCA Skin Acne Gel, $50 https://shopstyle.it/l/63d8 #ad

Retinoids for texture:

- (my fav prescription strength!) Differin Gel 0.1% Adapalene, $11 https://shopstyle.it/l/63ef #ad
- The Ordinary 0.5% Retinol in Squalane, $6 https://shopstyle.it/l/63ca #ad
- PCA Skin Intensive Clarity Treatment, $110 https://shopstyle.it/l/63cd #ad

These are a few product suggestions. Of course there are a ton others. But these are the main ones I’ve used on myself and with my clients! It’s you guys’ turn to ask me questions* about texture!

*I can’t tell you exactly what’s causing *your* specific texture.

So to conclude this thread, texture is often times your skin telling you that something isn’t exactly right.

Whether it’s your moisture barrier, or excessive sun exposure, or you’re not exfoliating...it’s an indication of something going on in your skin. Listen to your skin.

What not to do:

- Do not exfoliate twice daily trying to treat texture. You’re likely going to over exfoliate and worsen your moisture barrier, which will worsen texture
- Do not skip [topical] hydration in your morning and night routine
- Never skip SPF and always reapply

- Do not combine multiple different treatment serums in the same routine in an attempt to treat your texture faster. Example: salicylic acid cleanser, lactic acid serum, differin gel. This is overdoing it. You will absolutely damage your moisture barrier and worsen your texture.

Multiple acids can be in one formulation, and that’s safe because they’re stabilized and formulated at a pH that won’t damage the skin. Using multiple separate acids in separate formulations, I don’t recommend this. Unless your skin is very used to acids and even then be careful.

The safest way to use multiple treatments is to alternate them throughout the week. Pick no more than 3 & use 1 of each in your routine only on select days. Random Example:

- Monday: azelaic acid
- Wednesday: Differin Gel
- Saturday: Lactic acid

This is safe for *most* people.

This is safe only if you have a healthy moisture barrier, which is a whole other topic I’ll be doing a thread on. This is not safe if you have very sensitive skin, sensitized skin, rosacea, or a damaged barrier.

Also, hyaluronic acid is one of those tricky ingredients that has the word “acid” but isn’t actually an exfoliant. You can safely (and you really should) use hyaluronic acid along with any of these treatments. Use it twice daily. It hydrates and promotes barrier health.

Whew that was a LOT of information.

but now you’re fully equipped with all the information you need to treat your texture! We’re all achieving smooth skin in 2020!

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