Your routine morning/night should be:

AM:
- Cleanse (or just tone/use micellar water)
- Tone (optional)
- Hydrate (serum)
- Moisturize (gel/cream/oil)
- Protect (SPF 30-50)

PM:
- Cleanse (double cleanse!)
- Tone
- Hydrate
- Exfoliate (step varies)
- Moisturize
- Protect (oil) https://twitter.com/bubbleteashawty/status/1144415103183400960

In the morning, you can just tone or use a micellar water to remove products on your skin from your night routine. You don’t need a *full* cleanse. Acneic skin might benefit from a gentle cleanse, though.

Toning is optional bc many cleansers on the market now are pH balanced, so you don’t *need* to tone to balance your pH. Only tone if you want/need more hydration or you’re using an exfoliating toner. But PLEASE tone if you’re wearing makeup and/or SPF. It needs to be totally off.

Hydration is best via a lightweight, water based serum with one of the following humectant ingredients:

- Hyaluronic Acid
- Glycerin
- Aloe vera
- Urea
- Sodium PCA
- Lactic acid (also exfoliates, so be careful)
- Honey

Hydrators are NOT oils or creams.

Everyone needs a moisturizer. Gel moisturizers are best for oilier or combination skin types because they’re lightweight. Also great for acneic skin. Creams are better for dry skin types. Oils work for all skin types, but specific oils differ based on concerns/skin type.

And I wish I didn’t have to say this repeatedly, but....EVERYONE needs sunscreen. Regardless of your skin type, concerns, and complexion. We ALL need SPF. Especially if you want to treat concerns using AHAs/BHAs or retinoids since they increase sensitivity to the sun.

At night you need to double cleanse if you’re wearing SPF or makeup to ensure it all comes off. If you have a *super* heavy beat, even triple cleanse. 2 rounds oil cleanser, 1 round traditional cleanser. For a double cleanse, just oil cleanser + traditional. Each for 60 seconds.

I put “step varies” for exfoliant because if you’re exfoliating using a toner or an exfoliating pad, that would go after cleansing. Not hydrating. Only a serum would go after hydrating. Also, if you’re wearing SPF & your barrier is healthy, you can safely exfoliate in the AM.

And lastly, you should still be protecting your skin at night with an occlusive of some sort such as an oil or a petroleum jelly based product (no it won’t cause breakouts). Helps prevent rapid water loss which means you’re less likely to experience dehydrated skin.

You can also use an oil in the morning right before SPF! This is great especially for people with dry skin or who are dehydrated. It will still help to condition the skin and prevent dehydration.

Another question I was asked: where to put retinoids. This varies greatly on your skin’s condition. If you have super sensitive skin, do it after your moisturizer. If your skin’s barrier is healthy, you can apply them after hydrating.

I’m not an advocate of retinoids being applied directly on the skin, even if dermatologists tell their patients to do that. From what I’ve seen with my clients, the risk of retinoid dermatitis increases greatly when there’s nothing between the retinoid and your skin.